Are you looking for the best bouldering shoes? Our team has a few recommendations.
Bouldering at the highest level requires dedicated training, specific nutrition, perfect conditions and mistake-free-beta. The climbing shoes that an athlete selects plays a vital role in the chance of succeeding on their next project. Shoe technology has improved steadily since Boreal introduced the legendary "Fire" in 1979 launching a revolution in sticky rubber. Climbing shoes have gradually become more specialized for the different climbing disciplines, including steep bouldering, gym climbing and individual climbing styles. Boulderers often have numerous pairs to suit different terrain; steeper terrain suits a more aggressively downturned shoe that allows for better hooking. While a greater asymmetry (bending your foot over) of a shoe, will feel more powerful when you place your toes on edges.
The hundreds of shoes available on the market today can be overwhelming so we have selected six of the best from across the major brands and tested them on the Squamish boulders. All of the shoes in this review are high performance tools that will not be suited to beginners and we have only chosen shoes that are suited to bouldering. We have indicated our staff favourites and tried to lay out the differences in an easy to use comparison table, however the fit of each shoe will be determined by your foot shape. We recommend trying on the shoes and seeing how each one feels on your foot. Drop by our store!
Note: Climb On Equipment, selects products based on the expertise of our team. We comprise of climbers, athletes, guides, skiers and mountain rescuers. We then take the selected products and compare them in this independent review to help consumers make educated purchases. We are not paid for these reviews. This means that if we don't like a product feature or vice-versa, we will tell you!
Bouldering Shoe Comparison
| Boreal Satori | Scarpa Instinct WMN Lace | La Sportiva Solution Comp | Unparallel Qubit | Tenaya Mastia | Evolv Geshido | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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| Price (↑) | $199.95 | $199.95 | $219.95 | $249.95 | $224.95 | $199.95 |
| Best at | Power and control in one. | Powerful edging machine. | A benchmark shoe for many years. | Excels on steep terrain. | Soft and precise. | A more comfortable, less aggressive shoe |
| Pros | A pure bouldering shoe, a tightly fitted powerhouse with extra rubber for toe hooking. | A lower volume shoe combined with a lace up system. | A precise shoe for the technicians out there, adapts to sport climbs well. |
A stiff and aggressive design make exdel at standing on small edges. |
New single strap tension system. Extra toe rubber on top combined with a secure heel cup. | Designed for the climber that needs performance to excel on all types of terrain from moderately overhanging to off-vertical faces. |
| Cons | Difficult to put on due to sock tongue construction. | Stiffness not suited to the steepest terrain. | The aggressive fit may have your feet hurting after a while. |
The stiff design limits its effectiveness on climbs that rely on smearing. |
Stiffer than other Tenayas and the tongue material not as breathable. | A jack of all trades but a master of none. |
| Closure System | Lace and strap combo with velcro | Laces | Velcro Strap - Slipper | Velcro Strap - Slipper | Velcro Strap | Velcro Stap - Slipper |
| Upper Material | Microfibre | Microsuede & Leather | Leather & Microfiber | Synthetic Suede | Microfiber | Synthetic Microfiber |
| Stiffness | Moderately Stiff | Stiff | Soft | Stiff | Soft | Moderately Stiff |
| Shape | Highly Asymmetric | Moderately Asymmetric | Highly Asymmetric | Moderately Asymmetric | Moderately Asymmetric | Moderately Asymmetric |
| Profile | Highly Downturned | Moderately Downturned | Highly Downturned | Highly Downturned | Highly Downturned | Moderately Downturned |
| Rubber | ZENITH PRO Ultra (4-4.5mm) | Vibram® XS Grip 2 (3.5mm) | Vibram® XS Grip 2 (3.5mm) | RH rubber sole (4.2 mm) | Vibram XS Grip (3.5 mm) | 4.2mm TRAX® SAS outsole |
Shoe Summaries
Boreal Satori
The Satori is a close competitor to the La Sportiva Solutions - so close that it probably just comes down to your own personal preference. Fit and quality is also comparable but overall the Satori being a bit stiffer and more rigid, both in the sole and in the overall feel of the shoe. So if that's your preference for bouldering and sport climbing, this shoe could be for you. The sock-like fit made the shoes a bit awkward at first to put on, so I snipped the small elastic holding the shoe closed, the shoe now opens wide for my foot and still fastens as tight as I want with the two velcro closures. The velcro closure is able to get the shoe nice and tight on my foot for heel and toe hooks. The fit is almost the same as the Solution, with the weight concentrated over the big toe. The Satori has a longer break in period compared to other, softer shoes due to the overall stiffness of the shoe. Some of the best coloured shoes out there, especially the women's/low volume version. We would recommend sizing down only a half size or less from your street shoe size when fitting the Satori, depending on how tight you prefer the feel.
Scarpa Instinct Women's Lace
The Instinct series by Scarpa has gained a following over the past few years and quite rightly so. The series includes the Instinct, the Instinct SR, the Instinct VS, the Instinct VS Women's, the Instinct VSR and the now they have added a women's Instinct. The differences between the men's and women's Instinct shoe other than colour include a lower volume fit, a narrower heel shape, XS Grip 2 rubber and a toe piece made from a single rubber patch. We passed this new version along to our tester who immediately noticed the “dead space” was gone and was thrilled the shoe balanced performance and comfort. She noted this shoe would be suitable to hard crack climbing or sport climbing as well as bouldering the “The Instinct has an ever-so-asymmetrical, moderately downturned shape and I am excited to finally have a shoe in my arsenal again that balances performance with comfort.”
The new women's Instinct is a supportive shoe that excels in edging; Scarpa have combined a lower volume fit with a lace up system to create a fantastic new addition to the Instinct family. Those with smaller heels and lower volume feet who want a precision tool should try these.
La Sportiva Solution Comp
The Solution and now Solution Comp has been a benchmark for many years.
I've worn Solutions for a decade or more and along with most La Sportiva sport and boulder shoes they fit my gnarly climber feet comfortably. I have average width feet and nothing unusual for arches. I used to fit Solutions very small, but in recent years I find fitting them just snugly produces the same results with less break in time and less pain. These shoes concentrate my weight over the big toe, and if I don't fit them too tight I find they don't take long to break in. I think the Solution Comp is a slight improvement to the regular solutions, I like that the heel is just as many other climbing shoes, so it is sleeker and not the large rubber bulb shape of the regular solutions - this worked fine on the many heel hooks on Clampdown, and the rubber on top of the foot has more coverage which is really good for toe hooking on problems like Tatonka. I couldn't tell the difference in stiffness of the sole or softness of the shoe overall of the Comp vs the regular Solutions - I heard they might be slightly softer but I can't tell. The velcro closure system is simple and effective and the best of any shoe I've tried, it just works for my foot when I need to crank the shoes tight. This is as good as a shoe gets for me, and even better the yellow colour of the solution Comp sure is pretty.
Shop La Sportiva Solution Comp
Unparallel Qubit HV + LV
The Unparallel Qubit, developed with insight from elite climber Ryuichi Murai, builds upon the foundation of the Unparallel Regulus while refining its performance for demanding problems. With a stiffer midsole and a tensioned, downturned profile, the Qubit provides enhanced support and power transfer, making it particularly effective on overhanging boulders and steep sport routes. The shoe features Unparallel’s high-friction RH rubber, ensuring reliable grip on micro-edges and polished footholds. A molded toe patch increases surface contact for toe hooks, while the deep, sculpted heel cup offers a locked-in fit for aggressive heel hooking. The Qubit maintains a precise fit over time, thanks to its synthetic upper that resists excessive stretching. The Qubit is ideal for climbers who are looking for a stiffer shoe that still has the attributes commonly found with a high performance bouldering shoe.
Shop Unparallel Qubit HV and Qubit LV
Tenaya Mastia
The Mastia's have a very aggressive profile and are quickly becoming a go to shoe for most things bouldering. They excel on steep to moderately overhung climbs with small, but obvious footbolds, the Mastia is stiffer than the other shoes in the Tenaya lineup. When sizing the Mastia drop down 2 to 2.5 sizes from your street shoe size and expect them to stretch. They will fit a medium volume and medium width foot well. The heel box on the Mastia's is a masterpiece. The heel cup is very defined and holds a lot of structure so when you slide your heel in it feels locked into place. This rigidity is achieved by having rubber cover the entire back and sides of the heel, something which is also much appreciated when performing awkward heel hooks.
Evolv Geshido
Designed for the climber that needs performance to excel on all types of terrain from moderately overhanging to vertical and off-vertical faces for long periods of time.This is a semi-aggressive shoe for Bouldering and Sport Climbing that is equally ideal for people who are newer to bouldering or those more experienced that want a less aggressive shoe that provide a more comfortable fit.
Shop Evolv Geshido Mens and Womens
Happy Bouldering!
— From the Climb On Team
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